※ Download: Voyager xii driver floorboards
2000 Kawasaki Voyager XII ZG1200B Floorboards
Then it's time to tap out the hole you just drilled in the speakermount bolt. The newest 1200 Tech Tips may first bedisplayed in the AVA Members Group in the AVA Forum. But I do not think you can get the correct gears that way.
FromAVAArchives It has been reported that several havehadproblems with the Voyager XII water temperature gauge reading eitherlow or not at all. Secure the relay to the frame with a cable tie supplied. Answer: We would suggest changing thefork oilshould be a regularlyscheduled maintenance item. Remove the nuts that attach your stock passenger peg mounting brackets to the frame and remove stock pegs.
Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed.
When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison.
The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added.
The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it.
At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Do not tighten at this time Baron recommends the use of blue Loctite on this bolt. Set floorboard angle by installing flathead allen adjusting screw in the pivot bracket at the desired angle hole. Baron floorboards set to a 15-degree position has been found to be most comfortable and user friendly. Adjust side tilt angle by moving floorboard stop screw in or out to achieve desired angle.
Floorboard is ready for installation. Remove the nuts that attach your stock passenger peg mounting brackets to the frame and remove stock pegs. Install your new Baron floorboards in the same location using supplied M8 mounting bolts and washers. Be sure you dont over-tighten these bolts. It is best to use Loctite when mounting. Adjustment of Floorboard Angle After Installation 1. Remove the small allen screw located on visible side of the cam bracket.
Once this screw is removed, adjust the cam to the desired hole and insert and tighten allen screw. Repeat process on both sides.
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Unplug the light assembly and set it aside. Remove the bolts for the trunk Have a friend hold the trunk up and remove the 4 screws two on each side for the side trim Put the bolts back inside the trunk and tighten finger tight to make sure it does not fall. Remove the remaining side trim screws, 5 on each side, and remove the side trim and set it aside Remove 2 bolts from the saddle bag supports. Place the side plate mounting bracket behind the saddlebag supports and replace the two bolts you removed in the previous step.
We recommend using a few drops of Loctite. Do this step for both sides of the bike. The opposite way that you would normally unscrew something To do that I recommend using, either a rubber strap wrench, ora sheet of thin rubber used as you would to loosen the lid of ajar.
Once Ihadtheend caps off, I used a sharp utility knife to cut through, and peel off the factory rubber grips. With the rubber grips off, I removed the chromed ring that is adjacent to the left switch housing. The chromed plastic ring next to the switch housing needs to be cut off. Note all the ridges on the sleeve, all these except one ridge need to be filed off.
Prepare left handlebar for grip installation The left handlebar is pretty easy to prepare, first I cleaned any glue from the bar, and then gently test fit the left grip, be very careful here as it needs to slide on easily. Remember after the test fit you need to take it off again. If you find it too tight, as I did sand the bar using sandpaper until it slides on and off easily.
This is necessary to be able to remount rear fender. Locate two threaded holes 6mm near the top of the sub frame. Bolt top of bracket A to these holes.
Attach brackets to hitch. Remove the false fuel tank cover to expose the battery. Remove the right hand lower leg fairing. Unplug the stock horn and remove the 2 10mm bolts securing it to the frame. See photo 1 using the stock horn bolts attach the black horn mounting bracket and the white ground wire supplied as shown.
Next locate the relay supplied. Attach the air hose to the compressor air outlet fitting. Attach the short red wire supplied to the compressors positive + terminal and the white wire installed earlier to the compressors ground - terminal. As shown in photo 2. Attach the compressor to the frame with the hose clamp provided. Also the air hose and fitting should be in front of the frame tube with the hose routed inside the hose clamp without pinching the hose.
Attach the red wire from the compressor to one of the relays remaining outer terminals 30 or 87. Attach the remaining long red wire supplied to the remaining relay terminal 30 or 87. Secure the relay to the frame with a cable tie supplied. Route the red wire up to the battery positive + terminal. Locate the fuse wire assembly provided. Attach the fork end of the fuse wire to the battery positive + terminal. Cut the red wire to the desired length, strip the end and crimp to the fuse assembly.
Turn on the ignition and press the horn button, you should hear the compressor motor run. Re-install the false fuel tank lid. Re-install the right lower leg fairing while routing the air hose out next to the black horn mounting bracket 4. Trim the air hose to length if necessary and attach the air hose to the horn assembly. Install the trumpet covers. If you are installing the relocation arms at the same time as the floorboards follow their instructions first and then refer to this sheet.
Fold the floorboards up, remove the allen screws that attach them to the round spacers, remove the floorboards and set aside. Install the left and right relocation arms marked with an L and R on the back side onto the pins of the round spacers in the upper or lower position as desired.
Using the allen screws and washers supplied bolt the arms to the round spacers and tighten securely. Re-install the floorboards onto the relocation arms placing the supplied dowel pins into the set of holes on the relocation arms that allow the floorboards to be level or parallel with the ground.
Install and tighten the allen screws removed earlier 1. Remove the driver board pivot bolts and lock nuts. Install the new driver board in the same locations as the stock boards were removed from. Install the bolts and lock nuts. The driver board bolts should be tightened only enough to seat the nut and bolt head. The driver boards should pivot up approximately 20 degrees freely. Check that the lock nuts are secure.
kawasaki voyager 1200 darkside - voyager xii driver floorboards
So I went looking for a tire that wasa goodprice and could handle the weight of the bike, the stuff we cram intothe saddlebags, along with the two riders and the trailer we sometimes tow. Washing and waxing your bikenow is a good way to protect the finish throughout the harsh wintermonths of cold and no use. Instant start voyager xii driver floorboards verylittle gas fumes. If re-using the broken mounts, first re-glue themback together to keep them lined up. Apply thread locker to thread first, then turn in screwfrom the top down until it tightens just slightly so the mount canstill flex some. Solution: Loose spade connector s maybe theproblem.
Wheres The Hornet? [Riding A Kawasaki Voyager]
Thank you in advance.. Chuck My understand is that the floor boards are not manufactured by anybody anymore that fit the Voyager 1200. At times I have seen them on Ebay and folks parting out stuff on here and ABbikeboard but when they are they are pricey.
Carl Leo might have a lead on some. My advice is to just be patient and keep looking. A friend told me that the floor boards and heel toe shifter wasn't very well liked by most Voyager riders for some reason. I really miss them from my old bike but haven't considered looking for them for the XII until I saw this post. Does anyone have any comments as to the usefulness or comfort of the floorboards or shifter?
I want them on all three. I do not really like the brake side of the set up and will modify that at some point. Because the floorboards are so expensive, I am working on using the passenger floorboards for the front as well.
I have not been able to work in the shop lately so it has been put off for a while. But I plan on finishing it the early part of this summer.